Monday 14 January 2013

Veg box roulette

I suspect that like a lot of people, my reasons for buying a veg box are probably more emotional than rational. That's not such a bad thing in my eyes, farming over centuries has created the landscapes that I love so much, and the relentless pressure to deliver to a supermarket's spreadsheet will see the eradication of the small mixed farms that are such a part of the countryside.

And therefore, for the most part I try to accept that the contents of our medium Riverford veg box is not in my control with good grace. Years ago I had a job interview down there and I remember Guy Watson telling me that they would never give customers the option to choose because it made the box packers job too difficult. I never got past first interview in case you're interested - but I still admire what's been created.

However, right now in the depths of January, my patience is being sorely tested by the seemly weekly appearance of a cauliflower nestling like some grotesque cerebellum in among the cabbages, swedes and parsnips. Reading that back to myself, I appreciate that this sounds a little unhinged, but in my defence it's because nobody, but nobody, in this house likes cauliflower. Not even cauliflower cheese, which for most people is comfort food of the highest order.

So over the last few years my mission come caulitime (like Hammer time but without the comedy trousers) has been to find a way of making this brain of bland half way acceptable to others.

The results?

Well, lets just say, underwhelming.

So far the only thing to even make past first base have been:
- an Ottolenghi char-grilled salad (which is fantastic)
- a chickpea and cauliflower curry from Angela Hartnett (I think).
What both of these recipes have in common is that they add a whole bunch of flavours 

Today, Bill Granger was at the plate with cauliflower fritters.





After the inevitable floretting (is that actually a word?) and blanching....


the dry florets were dipped in a batter of egg yolks, flour, ground cumin, coriander and turmeric, grated onion and garlic, into which was folded egg whites beaten to soft peaks.



then shallow-fried in very hot olive oil, until they were a crisp golden colour all over.









The verdict? A muted OK.

The flavours were there, but without a deep fat frier I have to say that I don't think that these were crispy enough. Also maybe another oil, say rapeseed, with a higher smoking point might have been better. 



But that may not be the point. What's great is that I'm trying new recipes and ideas. In a world where seemingly consumers can get whatever they want, whenever they want irrespective of seasons or the carbon footprint, it's good sometimes not to take the easy way.

Oh and apologies that this post has nothing to do with cooking outdoors, but with London hovering just above 0 degrees night and day I wimped out of getting the stove going.

And can anybody out there give me some knockout cauliflower recipes?

1 comment:

  1. Are they mad? We love a nice cauli. Send them round our way next time. Great blog. E x

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